Wine Time
(Eastbourne Herald 
In Style)
25/10/02 

WINE WITH THAI FOOD

Hot, sour, salty and sweet! Such vibrant expressions evoke the excellent fare at the Thai Marina restaurant in Sovereign Harbour. But now your'e cooking it yourself. So what wines will complement the range of seasonings and flavourings?

Bridging most of these are wines based on the Sauvignon Blanc grape with its backbone of quiet citrus acidity. It's best dry and pungent, as from the Upper Loire, France (eg Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé or Menetou-Salon), or opulent and fruity from the New World (eg the ripe gooseberry style from Marlborough, New Zealand). Less expensive is a crisp and zesty VdP des Côtes des Gascogne, reminiscent of crunchy apples. If red is more to your taste, try a good Beaujolais, or a medium Cabernet Sauvignon from Portugal or a spicy yet soft fruity Sicilian or Puglian red.

The exotic taste of a Gewurztraminer form Alsace is a universal favourite with Eastern cuisine - particularly if medium in style, but also try one of the new Viognier-based wines, such as from the Languedoc as these will enhance many an aromatic Thai dish with their peach and nectarine flavours

Particular dishes can address specific wines. Narissa's Green Curry is well matched with a Vernaccia di San Gimignano form Italy, whereas sweeter satay dishes need an off-dry wine such as a German Riesling Kabinett.

King prawn dishes benefit from toasty flavours such as from oaked Chardonnay (eg Chablis) or yeasty ones from Muscadet Sur Lie. Squid, particularly in hot and sour dishes, goes very well with Italian Gavi.

Lightly spiced noodles need dry, medium acid white Bergerac or Montravel. Heavier flavoured noodles and stir fries, however, need the citrusy cut of a Sauvignon Blanc once again.

Perhaps in the future we might see the perfect matches emerging from Thailand's own fledgling industry as it learns to harness the natural exuberance of its climate and cuisine.